Butchers turned bar, Jenkins & Sons offers a wide range of mouth-watering dishes suitable for any appetite

In the 1920s, Jenkins & Sons had a reputation for selling the finest local meat and fish in the area.
Fast forward the best part of 100 years, and not much has changed.

The relaxed bar and restaurant, located in Penn Hill, Poole, plays on its fishmonger/butcher background, with wooden tables and glossy wall tiles reflecting the building’s original character.
Retro lighting and vintage mirrors are mixed with wooden floorboards, a wire mesh partition segregating the bar and restaurant areas, and pretty posies of flowers on each table.

For a Tuesday night, the bar was pretty busy, with some groups seated outside, and several tables in the restaurant in use – always a good sign on a week night.

We were given a friendly welcome and shown to our window table, before being given the menu – printed on a simple sheet of brown paper – to peruse.

There’s a good selection of meat and vegetarian dishes on offer, including sharing platters, salads, brochettes and steaks. Sandwiches are also served during the day, and the restaurant offers breakfast
menu and Sunday roast.

I opted for the soup of the day – broccoli and blue vinney (£5.50) – while my husband chose the chicken and duck liver parfait (£6.50).

For our main courses, I settled on the sticky baby rack of ribs (£12), and my husband went for the 20-
day aged West Country cowboy cut steak (£27).

A refreshingly different selection of drinks are also offered at Jenkins & Sons, which prides itself on its extensive range of British craft beers – I enjoyed a thirst quenching lime crush, while my husband
chose a speciality beer brewed with Champagne yeast

Our starters were quick to arrive and we were impressed by the generous portions.
My huge bowl was accompanied by deliciously crispy toasted bread, dusted with herbs, which complemented the rich, creamy flavour of the soup, while the smooth parfait was served with thickly sliced, toasted soldiers, and a tangy date and pear chutney

I had to admit defeat with the soup, as I wanted to ensure I had room left for my main course and dessert, so it was with regret that I forced myself to put my spoon down. And I was glad I did, as the
main courses were equally large.

Both the steak and ribs were served on rustic wooden boards, with the accompanying “fat” chips dished up in separate bowls.

I had been surprised I wasn’t given a sharper knife with which to cut the ribs, but one touch with the fork showed me why – the meat simply fell off the bone with the spiced Granny Smith and maple
syrup marinade adding a deliciously sweet flavour to the tender meat.

The 450g steak had been cooked over charcoal, without using gas or electricity, in a Josper oven – essentially a barbecue in a box which cooks at a very high temperature to seal the juices into the
meat.

It had a distinct charcoal flavour and my husband pronounced the meat, which was served with a herb crusted vine tomato, green peppercorn sauce and smoke garlic aioli, extremely tasty.

The fat chips, cut from Maris Piper potatoes, were mouth-wateringly good, with a satisfyingly crisp outside and beautifully fluffy inside.

Full as we were, we thought we could squeeze in small portions of dessert, so I requested a sliver of the recommended citrus tart (£6.50), and my husband asked for a reduced portion of the warm chocolate brownie (£5.50).

The tart was deliciously light, with a sharp, lemony taste, and was accompanied perfectly by the strong,
sharp flavour of a scoop of raspberry sorbet.

My husband’s brownie was moist and rich, and went well with the dollop of Purbeck clotted cream ice cream. Fantastic food, with a great, relaxed vibe – definitely worth a visit.

Jenkins & Sons, 01202 746604, jenkinssons.com